Haida Gwaii - cultural perspective
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Significant Spiritual Connection and Experiences.
Juxtaposition of an old growth cedar and a sapling - intertwined and interconnected. EXIF data f7.1, 200mm, 1/500s, ISO400).
It has been a little over a month since we visited Haida Gwaii and I have purposely held off on writing this post because I found that when we returned my thoughts were all in a muddle with what felt like snippets of visual images and impressions that seemed more like a kaleidoscope of colours, shapes and patterns whirling through my mind. I wanted to allow some time for these thoughts to settle into more coherent and cohesive ideas before sitting down to write about it.
Needless to say, I found the time we spent in Gwaii Hannas National Park to be very impactful from a spiritual connection perspective - so what does that mean to me? Well it means that when we visited different locations I often found myself overwhelmed with feelings of gratitude and connection to the nature around me. There was a lushness and richness to the landscape and I think that my images reflect this feeling of connection as they are full of bold colours and amazing light (see Haida Gwaii gallery).
There was a sense of mystery, wonder and supernatural which was a word that was used a few times during our visit.
Visiting Ancient Haida Villages
We visited a total of four Haida Villages which have watchmen (Haida people) manning the villages, allowing invited visitors to tour the area and sharing information about the Haida culture. Our first stop was K’uuna or Skedans, an island close to our departure point which is covered with lush forests and pebble beaches. Mel was our watchman guide and she did a wonderful job introducing us to the Haida culture. It was a bonus that all of us had visited the Haida Cultural Museum in Skidegate as we had a good foundational understanding that she was able to build on.
We learned of the village structures and the two clans (Raven and Eagle) which made up the villages. Ravens always marry Eagles and vice versa - marrying someone from your own clan was not done - something akin to intermarriage.
A sitka spruce growing on and around a red cedar beam from a longhouse. EXIF data (f8, 200mm, 1/250s, ISO500).
The structure of the long houses was impressive with massive red cedar beams and houses up to 2400 sq ft of terraced living space for many clan members. The side planks (like siding) and structural beams were able to be dismantled which was done when the clan moved to summer foraging locations. They would transport their house to the temporary location which made it faster to relocate and it also ensured that the houses were aired out and decay was not allowed to set in as the climate is quite moist.
During our visit Mel described the various totem poles and their use/significance. There are memorial poles which are a bit like address poles - describing the inhabitants of the house in terms of their clan and accomplishments. There are also mortuary poles where the life story of the person was told and the shelf at the top of the pole held the Bentwood Box containing the person’s remains. The whole grieving process was fascinating to learn about as it took about a year for the mortuary pole to be carved. During that time the opposite clan would care for the grieving family (i.e., if an Eagle family suffered a loss then the Raven clan would step in and care for them). At the end of the year a ceremony would be held to celebrate the deceased and the family would come out of mourning to move on from their grief with keen memories and celebrations of the deceased fresh in their minds.
It should be noted that the Haida culture is based on a matriarchal system and so everything passes down through the women’s side of the family - such as chieftain title, property etc.
We also saw poles containing rings carved into their lengths at various intervals and these told the story of the number of potlatch ceremonies the person had held. I was very confused about the term potlatch until Mel explained that it was like holding a government session where decisions, business and “contracts” would be established. The person holding the potlatch would provide gifts to those who attended and it was seen as a way of increasing your value and esteem. The more you were able to give away the higher your esteem - which sounds counter intuitive, but at these ceremonies all sorts of trading agreements and decisions were made.
My favourite story that Mel told was about a friend of hers who had carved a headdress/mask in the form of a supernatural five finned orca. Mel was wonderful at weaving the story around the supernatural and we were all enchanted by her tale. There seemed to a strong connection between our group and the stories Mel told - as though our openness and receptivity to learning about the Haida culture allowed for good vibes to flow.
Five orca fins emerged - similar to the five finned supernatural being described by Mel. EXIF data (f8, 200mm, 1/250s, ISO400).
When we returned to the zodiac to go back to the Afterglow we did a slow tour of the bay and suddenly right next to our boat a group of Orcas surfaced and continued to dive and surface around us for what seemed like the longest time. The highlight of this interlude was when five Orcas broke the water surface together and Jane (one of the other guests) exclaimed that here was our five finned Orca just like the tale of the supernatural being Mel described. Interestingly enough we did not see Orcas again during our visit.
Skang Gwaay - UNESCO Heritage Site
We were blessed with good weather and calm seas allowing us to visit the southern most village site at Skang Gwaay which is a UNESCO Heritage Site (UNESCO or United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization). These are sites that are recognized as having significance world wide and deserving preservation. Mel’s sons were watchmen at Skang Gwaay and so that connection and passing down the oral history of the Haida Nation is clearly alive today.
What struck me most during this visit is the cycle of life - the Haida do not believe in maintaining the totem poles - they are to return to the earth over time, so there is no repair or maintenance of them. If they are toppled during a storm then they are left where they fall. Over time the red cedar logs become nurse logs for other plants and even trees like the Sitka Spruce. This natural cycle is embedded in the Haida way of life and feels like a smooth and natural flow.
The canoe run at Skung Gwaay. EXIF data (f8, 100mm, 1/80s, ISO200).
We also visited the hot springs at Hot Springs Island which has significance for the Haida from a healing perspective. Lisa, our watchman guide was very generous with her time and spent a great deal of our visit describing the potlatch ceremony as her husband (a hereditary chief) is hosting a potlatch this coming September. His story was also fascinating as he found his way back to the Haida culture after growing up feeling like he was straddling two worlds and not feeling like he belonged in either. By taking up the hereditary chief position for his clan and commissioning a totem pole to be raised at this upcoming potlatch, he is reconnecting with his roots and giving back to his community to enable future generations to understand where they come from.
Surreal light on Hot Springs Island. EXIF data f5.6, 1/1000s, 80mm, ISO100)
Of note is that this pair of watchmen decided to bring their grandson with them for their two week posting on Hot Springs - their intent was to help him reconnect with his roots and get away from the distractions of the modern world. His enthusiasm telling us about bats and all that he had learned during his time on the island illustrated how impactful and important this time had been. We were even treated to a lemon pie from Lisa as she had been practicing for the 60 pies she needed to bake for the potlatch.
T’aanuu Village
I think that my favourite village was T’aanuu - it was the one we visited on the last full day of our tour and there was something incredibly special about the setting and Grace our Haida watchman guide. I think that Grace could easily make it as a stand up comedian - her stories were laced with humour, but filled with so much information. She had us laughing about stinging nettle and spongy ground indicating rats’ nests - I have to admit that I was wary every time I stepped on the moss covered ground and felt it give way slightly - wondering if there were any four legged inhabitants beneath me.
The lush forests at T’aanuu Village. EXIF data (f11, 100mm, 1/250s, ISO800).
There was such a sense of connection to the land that Grace brought to life. Her knowledge and obvious continuing learning about the flora and fauna of the islands made our visit memorable. She taught us about Dog’s Puke, Fairy Puke (are you sensing a theme?), and we saw woodpeckers and even a hummingbird came to hover above Janis’ head (one of the other Afterglow guests). It felt like a very special time and cemented my feelings of awe and wonder at the landscape and the deep dark secrets of this land. It felt like a special privilege to be able to share some of these experiences and stories.
I don’t want to give the impression that the Haida story is full of continuous bliss and connection to the earth. As I mentioned earlier when Europeans and other explorers discovered Haida Gwaii life shifted significantly. The islands contained a wealth of natural resources such as sea otter pelts, and later the massive sitka spruce trees harvested for shipbuilding lumber. There were approximately 60,000 Haida in the mid 1800’s and by the turn of the century there were only 5% remaining due to diseases such as small pox.
The presence of Europeans marked the irrevocable change to Haida life. EXIF data (f5.6, 100mm, 1/60s, ISO1000).
Later missionaries came and tired to impose their religious teachings and then the government banned many of the daily practices and ceremonies that made up Haida culture. The wearing of button blankets (a ceremonial robe worn during events such as potlatches) were banned as was the making of totem poles. Children were uprooted from their family homes and taken to residential schools in the early 1900’s. The remoteness of these islands often meant that the children were taken to schools on the mainland and quite distant from family. The language and traditions were lost as well as their oral history/stories.
This is a very dark period in Canadian history and it is very gratifying to witness the resurgence of the traditions and culture of the Haida people.
What this experience has meant to me.
It’s humbling to see people taking back their history and reconnecting with their past - most notably because they have had to do this in the first place. I relish the things that make each of us different and one of the things I have always enjoyed with travel is learning about other countries and cultures. What struck me more than anything with this trip is that Haida Gwaii is not about tourism or pandering to outsiders. We found that restaurants are about serving the community throughout the year and don’t make special provisions to ramp up for tourist season. In fact one very popular restaurant is closed during the peak summer tourist season because the owners have young children and they spend the summer at their cottage. This year the restaurant has been taken over by their front staff manager as a pop up artists’ gallery.
I also noticed that there were not the usual tourist souvenir shops we often see, but rather local artists producing one of a kind products. This is a special place which seems to be about living life simply, in community and their way - we are privileged to be invited in to see just a small portion of this community. The generosity with which information was shared with us in order to educate and enlighten is appreciated. My impressions of Haida Gwaii makes this an even more special place and worthy of protecting and preserving.
Is there somewhere that you’ve visited which has had a profound effect on you? I’d love to hear about it in the comments below or reach out to me directly by clicking on the “Connect With Me” button.
A fragile blossom of Single Delight shining brightly in the darkness of the forest. EXIF data (f4.5, 1/60s, 100mm, ISO1000).
I hope you’ll come back soon, share a cuppa, relax and enjoy more of my musings.
